Ehemaliges Mittelaletschbiwak SAC – Former High-Alpine Bivouac & Historical Shelter

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The Ehemaliges Mittelaletschbiwak SAC (Former Mittelaletsch Bivouac) is a decommissioned high-alpine bivouac situated above the Mittelaletsch Glacier, in the heart of the Bernese Alps. Historically used by alpinists traversing the Aletsch region, it no longer serves as an active shelter but remains an important historical reference point in Alpine mountaineering and SAC infrastructure.

    • Location: Aletsch Glacier / Jungfrau–Aletsch region, Canton of Valais / Bernese Alps, Switzerland

    • Altitude: ~3,000 m (approximate)

    • Status: Former / decommissioned SAC bivouac

    • Type: Historical high-alpine shelter

    • Managed by: Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) – no longer operational

    • Not maintained and not officially usable

    • No emergency guarantee

    • Should not be planned as a shelter in route planning

    • Accessed today mainly by experienced alpinists for historical interest or as a waypoint

    Any use is entirely at the user’s own risk.

  • The bivouac is located in serious glaciated terrain.

    • Typical access: Via routes on or above the Mittelaletsch Glacier

    • Terrain: Glacier travel, moraines, exposed alpine slopes

    • Difficulty: High-alpine / glacial (PD and above)

    • Requirements:

      • Full glacier travel competence

      • Rope techniques

      • Strong navigation skills

    This area is remote, committing, and subject to rapid changes due to glacier retreat.

  • As a former bivouac:

    • No guaranteed shelter

    • No heating

    • No water

    • No food

    • No electricity

    The structure, if still present, should be considered unreliable.

  • The Mittelaletschbiwak played a role in:

    • Early alpine traverses in the Aletsch region

    • Linking routes between the Aletschhorn, Jungfrau sector, and surrounding glaciers

    • Supporting multi-day high-alpine expeditions before modern hut networks expanded

    It reflects an earlier era of minimalist alpine infrastructure.

    • Experienced alpinists

    • Alpine historians and documentation projects

    • Serious high-mountain route planners (context only)

    • Not suitable for hikers, ski tourers, or emergency reliance

Why This Site Still Matters

Although no longer usable, the Ehemaliges Mittelaletschbiwak SAC remains a symbol of historic high-alpine travel in the Alps. It highlights how alpine routes were once undertaken with far fewer resources and emphasizes the importance of modern safety standards and up-to-date route planning in glaciated terrain.

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