Via Ferrata Saalfelden – Leogang
The alpine region around Saalfelden and Leogang in Salzburg, Austria, offers outstanding via ferrata (Klettersteig) adventures. Among these, the route ascending the Westliche Mitterspitze and associated north/south arms stands out for its dramatic terrain, high exposure and breathtaking views. With steel cables, metal rungs and fixed protections carved into steep limestone walls, this route blends the thrill of climbing with the accessibility of a secured alpine passage. It is a must for experienced climbers looking to push boundary and soak in panoramic views over the Steinberge and the wider region.
Trail Overview
Location: Leogang and Ullach, in the Saalfelden-Leogang region, Salzburg, Austria.
Route options:
Leoganger Süd Klettersteig (South route) – steep, modern sport route leading to the summit of Westliche Mitterspitze (~2,160 m).
Leoganger Nord Klettersteig (North route) – often used as the descent from the summit, but also possible as an independent climb.
Elevation gain: Approximately 1,200–1,300 m from parking/approach area to summit.
Length / Duration:
South route: ~3.7 km, ~3h11m climbing time (via ferrata section) from approx start of via ferrata.
Combined ascent + descent via Nord: total time ~7.5 hours (for example route) according to some sources.
Difficulty grades: The South route features climbing segments rated up to D and in some parts D/E (via ferrata grading). Key passages include overhangs and quite steep walls.
Terrain: Steep limestone wall of the Leoganger Steinberge, overhanging sections, narrow ledges, cables, rungs, exposed traverses.
Route Description
Approach:
From the village of Leogang, drive or follow signage northwards towards the Passauer Hütte area. A parking area is located near Ullach or near the trailhead. Follow marked forest/walking path up to the Passauer Hütte or its nearby slope. From the hut or just below it, the via ferrata starts after about 10-15 minutes of approach on foot.
Ascent (South Route):
The climb begins with a wall (“Einstiegswandl”) rated approx B/C, warming you into vertical terrain. Then the route quickly increases in steepness, reaching the “Rauber Leiter” section rated D (a steep ladder or chimney). After this, the terrain slightly moderates but remains B/C to C grade with exposure. You then traverse a ledge band (“Südwandband”) and follow a Latschengrat (a pine-ridge) before reaching the critical “Bergführer-Querung” (guide traverse). This section leans into D (and in some descriptions D/E) with overhang or very steep profile. After negotiating the “Ausstiegskamin” (exit chimney) and final wall rated C, you reach the summit of Westliche Mitterspitze (~2,160 m).
Descent (Nord Route):
From the summit you may descend via the Leoganger Nord Klettersteig. This descent route is rated about C/D, includes a section through a cave and a steel bridge, and ultimately leads back to the parking area via the Passauer Hütte route. The Nord route can also serve as a separate via ferrata ascent.
Key note: The combination of Süd ascent + Nord descent creates a full loop and one of the most complete via ferrata experiences in the region. The route should only be attempted in good weather.
Highlights
Stunning panorama: Upon reaching the summit, views extend across the Steinernes Meer massif, the Dachstein and the surrounding Salzburg Alps.
High-adrenaline sections: Overhanging wall sections, steep chimneys, and long exposed traverses give a genuine climbing feel rather than mere walking.
Technical variety: The route covers a range of grades (B to D/E), making for a fully engaging ascent—both physically and mentally.
Combined ascent/descent option: The possibility to ascend via Süd and descend via Nord gives a varied experience and adds to the adventure.
Alpine ambiance: Starting in forest, moving into rock faces and finishing at alpine ridges, the route embodies a full mountain environment.
Difficulty and Required Skills
Technical grade: Up to D / D/E on the South route, C/D on Nord descent. Not suitable for beginners.
Skills: Excellent sure-footedness, comfortable with exposed terrain, strong upper body (for steeper sections), good head for heights. Familiarity with via ferrata gear and techniques (how to clip/unclip, manage ferrata set) is essential.
Equipment: Complete via ferrata kit (helmet, harness, via-ferrata lanyard with energy absorber), gloves, sturdy mountain boots, possibly two extra small carabiners (“Expressschlingen”) especially for the Bergführer-Querung section.
Environment & Risk: The route is steep and exposed; risk of rock-fall exists; poor weather (rain, thunderstorms, snow) increases danger significantly. According to official info, the South route is absolutely not suited for beginners.
Physical fitness: High – elevation gain ~1,200 m; climb time several hours; descent via via ferrata adds complexity.
When to Go
Best season: Late June to early October when the rock is dry, and snow is melted from the key passages. Early season may still carry snow/ice on the north side.
Time of day: Start early morning to avoid thunderstorms, which are common in summer afternoons in the Alps. Choose a day with stable weather forecast.
Considerations: Avoid the route when rock is wet or icy; if recent heavy rain, steel rungs and rock may be slippery. Due to exposure the route is best attempted with good daylight. Minor snow patches may linger on descent route (Nord) especially early in the season.
Access and Logistics
Getting there: Drive or take public transport to Leogang village (Salzburg region). From Leogang follow signs to Ullach / Passauer Hütte parking.
Parking and approach: Park at the designated lot near Ullach or at the end of the access road. Then follow forestry/walking paths indicated for Passauer Hütte. The approach to the via ferrata start takes about 15 minutes from hut area.
Route type: This is a point-to-point with ascent via Süd route and descent via Nord. Return to vehicle via marked trails from Nord route.
Time required: Allow a full day (6–8 hours) including approach, climbing ascent, summit break, descent, and return.
Safety: Check local mountain rescue/AV updates; bring mobile phone, map or GPS; sign in at hut or logbook if available.
Other logistics: Some climbers choose to stay at Passauer Hütte the night before for earlier start. Ensure climbing kit is complete and in good condition.
Why It Belongs on Every Adventurer’s List
This via ferrata stands out because it merges the heart-rate pounding thrill of real rock climbing with the accessibility of a secured mountain route. The setting—high above Leogang, surrounded by the dramatic ridge lines of the Steinberge—offers some of the most unforgettable alpine views. It challenges both body and mind, demands respect, and rewards with a sense of summit achievement few hiking trails can provide. For any adventurer who wishes to elevate the typical mountain walk into a climbing experience, this route delivers. It’s not just a via ferrata—it’s an alpine journey that tests courage, skill and endurance, culminating in panoramic triumph.
