Bivouac au Col de la Dent Blanche CAS – High-Alpine Bivouac Guide

Perched on the Col de la Dent Blanche, between Switzerland and Italy, the Bivouac au Col de la Dent Blanche CAS is a small, unguarded high-alpine shelter used almost exclusively by mountaineers attempting the Dent Blanche via its classic ridges. Remote, exposed, and positioned at extreme altitude, it is a strategic overnight stop rather than a destination in itself.

• Bivouac Overview

  • Location: Col de la Dent Blanche, Valais (Swiss–Italian border)

  • Altitude: 3,507 m

  • Type: Unguarded high-alpine bivouac

  • Capacity: Approx. 10–12 sleeping places

  • Season: Short summer alpine season only (condition-dependent)

  • Managed by: Swiss Alpine Club (CAS)

• Access & Approaches

  Access is long, committing, and strictly for experienced alpinists.

  • Typical access: From Schönbielhütte SAC via glacier and high-alpine terrain

  • Ascent time: ~5–7 hours from Schönbielhütte

  • Elevation gain: ~1,300–1,500 m (depending on route and conditions)

  • Terrain: Glacier travel, steep snow and ice, exposed rocky sections

  • Difficulty: Alpine (AD / PD depending on route and conditions)

  • Requirements: Glacier travel skills, rope management, alpine experience

  Once committed to the upper slopes, retreat options are limited.

• Facilities & Comfort

  Facilities are extremely basic and intended for emergency or planned bivouac use only.

  • Enclosed metal bivouac shelter

  • Simple sleeping platforms or benches

  • No guaranteed blankets

  • No food service

  • No running water

  • No electricity or heating

  All food, water, and fuel must be carried in and out.

• Food & Atmosphere

  There is no catering. Nights are often very cold and windy, even in midsummer. The atmosphere is focused and technical, typically shared by small rope teams preparing for early summit starts.

• Prices & Booking

  • Overnight stay: Free

  • Booking: Not required

  • Policy: First-come, first-served

  Users are expected to leave the bivouac clean and operational.

• Best Routes From the Bivouac

  Descrição do itemThe bivouac is used almost exclusively for serious mountaineering:

  • Dent Blanche (4,357 m) – South Ridge / related alpine routes

  • High-alpine ridge and glacier routes linking Swiss and Italian sides

  All objectives require full alpine and glacier equipment.

• When to Go

  • Best period: July to early September

  • Conditions: Cold nights, strong winds, rapid weather changes

  • Main risks: Crevasses, icefall, rockfall, storms

  A stable, well-defined weather window is essential.

• Who Is This Bivouac For

  • Experienced mountaineers only

  • Alpinists preparing major 4,000-m ascents

  • Teams seeking a high, strategic position close to the summit

  • Not suitable for hikers or non-technical parties

• Practical Tips

  • Carry full alpine and bivouac equipment

  • Plan a very early summit start

  • Bring sufficient water or means to melt snow

  • Monitor weather closely and be conservative

  • Apply strict Leave No Trace principles

Why This Bivouac Is Worth Visiting

At 3,507 m, the Bivouac au Col de la Dent Blanche CAS offers one of the highest and most exposed bivouac experiences in the Valais. Spartan and uncompromising, it provides committed alpinists with a rare, strategic foothold beneath one of Switzerland’s most elegant and demanding 4,000-metre peaks.