Bivacco Piero de Zen (Fletschhornbiwak) – High-Alpine Bivouac Guide

The Bivacco Piero de Zen, commonly known as the Fletschhornbiwak, is a remote, unguarded high-alpine bivouac positioned on the southern side of the Fletschhorn massif. Intended exclusively for experienced alpinists, it provides essential shelter for serious mountaineering objectives in a demanding and exposed environment above the Saas Valley.

• Bivouac Overview

  • Location: Fletschhorn massif, Valais, Switzerland

  • Altitude: 3,014 m

  • Type: Unguarded high-alpine bivouac

  • Capacity: Approx. 6 sleeping places

  • Season: Summer alpine season only (strictly condition-dependent)

  • Management: Memorial bivouac (Italian Alpine community)

• Access & Approaches

  Access is long, committing, and suitable only for skilled parties.

  • Typical access: From the Saas Valley via high-alpine routes

  • Ascent time: ~5–7 hours

  • Elevation gain: ~1,300–1,600 m (depending on starting point)

  • Terrain: Alpine paths, scree, exposed rock, snowfields and glacier sections

  • Difficulty: T5 / alpine

  • Requirements: Excellent navigation, glacier travel skills, full alpine experience

  Retreat options are limited once above the upper mountain.

• Facilities & Comfort

  Facilities are minimal and intended strictly for emergency or planned bivouac use.

  • Small enclosed metal shelter

  • Basic sleeping platforms or benches

  • No guaranteed blankets

  • No food service

  • No running water

  • No electricity or heating

  All food, water, and fuel must be carried in and out.

• Food & Atmosphere

  There is no catering. Nights are cold and often windy even in midsummer. The atmosphere is austere and focused, typically shared by small teams preparing for early summit starts.

• Prices & Booking

  • Overnight stay: Free

  • Booking: Not required

  • Policy: First-come, first-served

  Users are expected to leave the bivouac clean and functional.

• Best Routes From the Bivouac

  The bivouac is primarily used for serious alpine objectives:

  • Fletschhorn (3,993 m) – demanding alpine routes

  • Glacier and mixed terrain on the southern flanks of the massif

  • High-level alpine traverses toward neighboring peaks

  All routes require full alpine and glacier equipment.

• When to Go

  • Best period: July to early September

  • Conditions: Cold nights, frequent wind, rapid weather changes

  • Main risks: Crevasses, rockfall, snow and ice, sudden storms

  Stable weather windows are essential.

• Who Is This Bivouac For

  • Experienced mountaineers only

  • Highly skilled alpine hikers with glacier experience

  • Alpinists seeking isolation and commitment

  • Not suitable for beginners or casual hikers

• Practical Tips

  • Carry full alpine and bivouac equipment

  • Bring sufficient water, food, and fuel

  • Plan conservative timings and very early starts

  • Inform a third party of your itinerary

  • Apply strict Leave No Trace principles

Why This Bivouac Is Worth Visiting

At 3,014 m, the Bivacco Piero de Zen offers a strategic, no-frills foothold beneath the Fletschhorn. Remote, exposed, and uncompromising, it rewards experienced alpinists with solitude and direct access to one of the Saas Valley’s most serious 4,000-metre objectives.