Via Ferrata Anita Goitan
The Via Ferrata Anita Goitan is one of the most iconic and demanding high-altitude routes in the Julian Alps. Set on the rugged northern face of Monte Coglians (2,780 m), this long and exposed itinerary delivers a true alpine experience that blends technical climbing, dramatic views, and a strong sense of isolation. Known for its sustained difficulty and serious exposure, it is a route suited for experienced climbers seeking a full-day adventure on steep limestone walls.
Trail Overview
Duration:
7–9 hours round trip (depending on starting point and pace).
Difficulty:
High to very high. Typically graded D/D+ with long, exposed passages and sustained effort required.
Best for:
Experienced via ferrata climbers with solid endurance, sure-footedness, and familiarity with demanding alpine terrain.
Exposure:
Severe. Many sections are fully exposed with vertical or overhanging passages, often above large drops.
Required Gear:
Standard via ferrata kit (EN-certified lanyard with energy absorber, harness, helmet), climbing gloves, sturdy mountaineering boots, 30–40 L pack, water and layers suitable for alpine weather. A short rope may be useful for less experienced partners.
Route Description
The route usually begins from Rifugio Tolazzi or Rifugio Lambertenghi-Romanin, leading up to the Forcella Monte Florio. After a steep and scenic approach, the via ferrata itself starts on the northern wall of Monte Coglians.
From the outset, climbers encounter sustained steep sections along metal cables, iron rungs, and exposed ledges. The line traverses airy ridges, crosses compact slabs, and rises along vertical chimneys where arm strength and precise footwork are essential.
Higher on the route, the terrain becomes more technical, with dramatic exposure as the path follows the crest toward the summit ridge. The final stretch includes narrow passages and a sharp, rocky spine leading to the top of Monte Coglians.
Descent is typically made either via the normal route or by looping back through easier alpine paths toward the supporting refuges.
Highlights
A long, continuous high-altitude route on one of the highest peaks in the Julian Alps.
Exceptional panoramic views over Italy and Austria, especially near the summit ridge.
A pure alpine ambiance with rugged limestone and dramatic drops.
A rewarding combination of technical climbing and physical challenge.
Opportunity to summit Monte Coglians, the highest mountain in the Friuli region.
Difficulty and Required Skills
This via ferrata is recommended only for climbers with experience on advanced routes. Its D/D+ grading reflects several sustained vertical passages, strenuous movements, and prolonged exposure. Climbers must be confident in using via ferrata equipment, maintaining balance on narrow ledges, and moving efficiently over steep terrain. Alpine awareness is essential, including understanding weather patterns, evaluating rock conditions, and managing fatigue over a long day.
When to Go
The ideal season runs from late June to late September, depending on snowmelt and weather stability. Early or late in the season, lingering snowfields may still be present on the approach or descent, requiring caution or additional equipment. Clear, dry weather is crucial for safety, as the route becomes significantly more hazardous in wet or stormy conditions.
Access and Logistics
Most climbers begin at Rifugio Tolazzi (1,350 m) or Rifugio Lambertenghi-Romanin (1,900 m) in northern Friuli Venezia Giulia. Both offer access to the trail and overnight accommodation if needed.
From the refuges, follow waymarked paths that ascend toward the Forcella Monte Florio, where the official start of the ferrata is located. Allow 1.5–2.5 hours for the approach.
Descent from the summit can be made via the normal hiking route toward the same refuges, completing a loop.
Why It Belongs on Every Adventurer’s List
Via Ferrata Anita Goitan stands out as a complete alpine challenge: long, exposed, technically demanding, and set in one of the most beautiful corners of the Julian Alps. For those seeking a route that tests physical and mental endurance while rewarding them with outstanding scenery and a true mountaineering atmosphere, this ferrata delivers an unforgettable experience.
