Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella
The Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella is one of the most iconic and atmospheric routes in the Dolomites, tracing the western face of Tofana di Rozes above Cortina d’Ampezzo. Known for its dramatic tunnels, exposed ledges and high-alpine scenery, it is a demanding and historic itinerary that blends adventure with World War I heritage. This is a long, technical and committing ferrata suitable for well-prepared mountaineers seeking one of the Dolomites’ classic full-day ascents.
Trail Overview
Duration: 6 to 8 hours (full loop, depending on pace and summit option)
Difficulty: C/D (moderate to difficult ferrata; significant exposure; long approach and descent)
Best for: Experienced ferrata climbers, strong hikers, and mountaineers seeking a long, historical, high-altitude route
Exposure: High and continuous, especially on ledges and vertical sections
Required gear:
Certified via ferrata set (Y-lanyard with energy absorber)
Climbing harness
Helmet (mandatory due to rockfall)
Gloves (recommended for cable sections)
Headlamp (essential for the long WWI tunnel)
Sturdy mountain boots
Sufficient water and layers for rapid weather changes
Route Description
The route begins at the Rifugio Dibona car park, followed by a steady approach toward the entrance of the long wartime tunnel carved into the rock. The first section is entirely inside this tunnel—over 500 meters of dark, humid, and steep interior pathways carved by Italian soldiers. A headlamp is mandatory, as footing can be slippery.
Exiting the tunnel, the route traverses exposed ledges with cables, progressing to more vertical sections equipped with metal steps and anchors. The line gradually climbs the western flank of Tofana di Rozes, weaving beneath massive rock towers and over airy ramps. The central section is characterized by sustained exposure and physical climbing, though never extremely technical.
The upper portion turns into a long, scenic traverse with alternating ledges, short climbs, and panoramic balconies overlooking Cortina and the surrounding Dolomites. Many climbers opt to summit Tofana di Rozes (3,225 m) after completing the ferrata, though this adds additional time and a non-technical but steep ascent.
The descent follows marked alpine trails back to Rifugio Giussani and eventually to Rifugio Dibona, completing a long, full-day loop.
Highlights
The atmospheric, historic World War I tunnel—one of the most memorable starts to any via ferrata
Constant exposure with spectacular views of Cortina d’Ampezzo and the Ampezzo Dolomites
A varied route combining tunnels, traverses, vertical sections, and ridge lines
The optional summit of Tofana di Rozes, one of the region’s most iconic peaks
A long alpine adventure offering a blend of history, geology, and technical climbing
Difficulty and Required Skills
Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella is rated C/D, demanding good physical condition, confident movement on exposed terrain, and solid ferrata experience. The route is long and committing, with few opportunities for early exits. Climbers must be comfortable with:
Continuous exposure on narrow ledges
Steep cable-protected sections
Moving efficiently for 6–8 hours at altitude
Navigating loose rock and alpine terrain
Managing fatigue on a long descent
It is recommended only for those who have completed several intermediate ferratas beforehand.
When to Go
The ideal season is from late June to early October, depending on snow conditions. Early-season patches of snow or ice may remain on shaded ledges, significantly increasing risk. Weather in the Dolomites can shift rapidly; early starts are recommended to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. The tunnel and west-facing walls can be cold in the morning—layers are essential.
Access and Logistics
Starting point: Rifugio Dibona (2,083 m), accessible by a toll road from Cortina d’Ampezzo
Parking: Large parking area near the refuge
Trail markers: Clear signage for “Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella”
Nearest town: Cortina d’Ampezzo
Water: None available on the route; carry adequate supply
Entrance requirements: No permits are needed, but the route requires proper equipment and experience
Many climbers choose to start early from Cortina or spend a night at Rifugio Dibona or Rifugio Giussani for convenience.
Why It Belongs on Every Adventurer’s List
Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella is a masterpiece of alpine adventure: long, historic, and visually spectacular. The combination of wartime engineering, exposed climbing and towering Dolomite walls creates a uniquely immersive experience. Its length and complexity make it a true test of endurance and technical skill, while the panoramic finish and potential summit offer a profound sense of accomplishment. For experienced climbers seeking one of the Dolomites’ most memorable ferratas, Lipella is an essential and unforgettable route.
